Dry the edges, iron on a thick coat of storage wax and leave it unscraped, loosen the boots, and keep everything at room temperature away from summer humidity.
Before you put skis or a snowboard away for summer, wash and fully dry them, iron on a thick coat of wax and leave it unscraped, and store them indoors at room temperature. Boots need their liners pulled out and dried, then the shells buckled loosely so they keep their shape. The whole job takes well under an hour, and it prevents the two problems people find in December: rusted edges and dry, white bases.
Steel edges rust when they stay damp, and Japanese summers are humid. The rainy season (tsuyu) usually runs from around June 7 to July 19 in Kanto-Koshin and from around June 11 to July 23 in Hokuriku, based on the Japan Meteorological Agency's 1991-2020 averages (JMA, Kanto-Koshin, JMA, Hokuriku). A ski bag that goes into a garage or storage shed wet in April can sit in that air for months. Spring snow is also dirty, and grit left on the base and in the bindings holds moisture.
Wipe the bases, top sheets and bindings with a damp cloth to remove dirt. If the gear rode on a roof rack, rinse off road salt, which corrodes metal quickly. Dry the edges with a towel, then leave the skis or board standing in a dry room for a day before you bag them. Never zip wet gear into a bag.
Iron on a thick coat of all-temperature wax and do not scrape it. Tognar, a US ski-tuning supplier, recommends exactly this and notes that a bit of wax running over the side edges is fine because it helps keep rust off (Tognar maintenance tips). The wax layer seals the base so it does not dry out. Next season, scrape and brush it before your first day.
If you do not own an iron, most ski shops will do a hot wax for you. Ask them not to scrape it.
Some people turn the release value (DIN) down for summer so the springs are not under load. It is optional. Tognar points out that most modern bindings keep their settings season after season without this, and that anyone who does lower them must set them back correctly before skiing (Tognar on bindings). If you lower them, write the original numbers on a piece of tape on the ski. A shop check before the season is a good idea either way.
For snowboards, check that all binding screws are tight and remove any rust spots on the hardware.
Pull out the liners and footbeds and let them dry completely, away from a heater. Put them back and buckle the shells snugly, but not on the tightest setting, so the plastic keeps its shape over the summer (Tognar). Snowboard boots should also be dried with the laces loosened.
Keep the gear somewhere with a stable temperature: a closet, under a bed, or a cupboard inside the house. Car trunks, attics and outdoor sheds get very hot in a Japanese summer, and heat can warp boards and soften boot plastic. Leave the bag partly open or store the gear out of the bag so moisture does not build up.
| Item | What to do |
|---|---|
| Skis or board | Clean, dry, thick coat of wax, do not scrape |
| Edges | Towel dry; remove any rust before waxing |
| Bindings | Lowering DIN is optional; note settings if you do |
| Boots | Liners out to dry, then buckle shells loosely |
| Storage spot | Indoors, room temperature, away from summer heat |
| Before next season | Scrape and brush wax; have bindings checked |
Only if they go in fully dry, and it is better to leave the bag open. Humidity trapped in a closed bag is what rusts edges.
No. Fix big base damage when it suits you, but a storage wax is enough for summer. If you are thinking about replacing gear instead, our guide to buying used ski gear in Japan covers the second-hand shops.
If you are unsure whether to bring your own gear on your next trip, compare the costs in when to bring your gear vs. rent and the shop options in where to rent gear in Japan. When the season starts, our live cameras show which resorts have snow.